The Alaskan Malamute — An Introduction
Contents
The Alaskan Malamute evolved from the ancient dogs that accompanied
prehistoric man in his migrations from Asia, across the Arctic to Greenland and
back. The migrations, covering thousands of years also produced a natural
evolution of species that varied from the long coated varieties found in
Greenland to the lesser coated, longed legged varieties found in the forest and
lake areas of northern Canada.
Early Russian and English explorers often reported a superior and better kept
type of work dog kept by the “Mahlemut” (Malemiut, Mahlmuit, Malemuit) tribes
around the Norton Sound area of Alaska. They were less “wild”, more tractable
and capable of an enormous amount of work.
It must be kept in mind that these were work animals. They were used in
hunting seals, were set loose in packs to course the polar bear, and to haul
heavy sledges or pack in supplies. Although treated with fondness and
exceptional care, there was no room for “pets” on the cruel ice packs and
tundra.
With the Gold Rush, the demand for pack and sled dogs brought into Alaska all
types of breeds that could survive the weather. Soon, especially near the
populated areas, the dogs were quite a mixture of breeds and quality. One had to
travel many days inland, out of the gold country to find any semblance of the
original Alaskan sled dogs. Due to their relative isolation, the dogs of the
“Mahlemuts” remained fairly “pure”, but they too suffered from the inroads of
civilization.
“Chinook Kennels” established by Arthur T. Walden and later by Milton and Eva
Seeley, in New Hampshire, was one of the main sources for sled dogs used in the
Byrd Antarctic expeditions in the early thirties. The Seeley's began a program
to reproduce those dogs that were typical of the dogs found in the Norton Sound
area. “Kotzebue” applies to the strain of Alaskan Malamutes at Chinook Kennels
established by the Seeley's.
A slightly different strain was developed by Paul Voelker, Sr., and Paul
Voelker, Jr., with dogs they brought from Alaska in the early 1900's and later
in the 1920's. These were generally known as the “M'Loot” strain, named after
the kennel established by the Voelker's. Some of these dogs saw service in both
World War I and World War II, and with Admiral Byrd's second expedition. Ralph
and Marcheta Schmitt, of Silver Sled Kennels, purchased some of the Voelker dogs
and further established the “M'Loot” strain.
These two terms, “Kotzuebue” and “M'Loot” are often used to describe the
genetic background of the present day Malamute, whether the current dogs
resemble their ancestors or not.
Through the efforts of a handful of admirers of the breed, the first standard
of The Breed was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1935. Interest spread
through New England, and the Chicago area, south to Virginia and soon quite a
following was established.
These early breeders and exhibitors often got together to compare notes and
exchange information pertaining to the breed as well as keep track of the dogs
around the country. This soon led to the establishment of the Alaskan Malamute
Club of America, Inc.
The AMCA is known as the “parent” club of the breed and is the guardian of
the breed standard and the breed itself. Through the efforts of the breed club,
programs for the furtherance and improvement of the breed have been established.
In 1978, the AMCA roster included over 900 members from all 50 states, Canada,
Mexico, Europe and Asia. The Alaskan Malamute has become truly an international
breed whose foundations began in North America.
The Alaskan Malamute Today
The Malamute has had a distinguished career in accompanying Arctic and
Antartic explorers. His howl has been heard by the “midnight sun” at both poles.
Today the Malamute's main occupation is pal and companion to thousands who have
one as a family pet. A growing number have found themselves as part of a
“recreational” sled dog team consisting of one, three or as many as seven or
more dogs. An event that is becoming increasingly popular is weight pulling — a
project of local clubs and specialty shows. Many are shown in
American Kennel Club Conformation Shows, or
compete in AKC Obedience Trials. Of over one hundred
breeds and varieties recognized by the American Kennel Club, the Alaskan
Malamute ranks about thirtieth in number registered.
Thinking of Buying an Alaskan Malamute?
If you are the type of person that cannot tolerate a bit of dog hair around
the house, cannot cope with the disappearance of prized plants and flowers from
the garden, or feels that a dog must be a “free spirit”, then consider another
breed. The Alaskan Malamute is NOT for you! Should you be seeking a devoted
companion, awaiting your beck and call, one that will defend your life and
property, play gently with all guests and friends, then seek elsewhere.
The Alaskan Malamute is still a powerful, independent dog, willing to work if
necessary; will, with proper training and firm but gentle persuasion become a
good, if not model citizen and member of your family. Some Malamutes have earned
the highest degrees in Obedience Trials, but these were unusual dogs with
unusual trainers and owners. The average Malamute will do as little as it has to
and is generally resistant to “home training”. Considering the size and power of
these dogs, you must be willing to take the time, money and effort to properly
train and raise your pet or serious and disastrous results could happen. A
Malamute that owns a person is not a joy to live with. Their great love of
people and disdain for small animals makes them neither a good guard dog nor a
reliable companion for the small family pet. There are many more sad stories of
disaster than the occasional nice stories of pets “adopted” by Malamutes.
Selecting a puppy takes as much care as selecting any long-term purchase. The
average Malamute lives to between ten and fifteen years of age. Unless you are
knowledgeable of dogs and northern dogs in particular, you must rely on the
breeder of the puppy. His experiences should help match up a pup that will fit
into your life-style and will grow up to meet your expectations.
The puppies that you look at should be energetic and friendly; they should
have bright inquisitive eyes, shiny coats, though they may be a little soiled
from playing with their litter mates. The puppies should have all the “shots”
relative to their age. They should be willing to play on invitation and not hang
back nor resist being handled. Your heart may go out to that little shy one in
the corner, but as it grows up it could break it too.
The AMCA Secretary has a list of members (also see
AMCA Breeders' Listing) that
occasionally have puppies in your area. Often, all-breed clubs or veterinarians
can direct you to someone “in” the breed. Although none of these sources can be
considered “endorsements”, they are a place to start. The breeders that you
contact should be willing to discuss and have knowledge of the parents of the
pups. They should be able to tell you about the various bloodlines behind the
dog. The reputable, knowledgeable breeders of pure-bred dogs have litters
available only occasionally and then only when they are improving their own
lines or have reservations for puppies in advance. The breeder should be able to
produce evidence that his or her breeding stock is free of such inherited
problems such as
canine hip dysplasia,
Chondrodysplasia, bad
temperament, eye problems, etc. The breeder should be willing to answer your
questions (see What do I ask a
breeder?) to your satisfaction and offer guidance as
to the care and training of the dogs in general. The difference between
so-called “show” quality and “companion” quality is not of major concern unless
you genuinely are planning to enter the expensive and frustrating world of dog
showing and/or breeding. Here the breeder's guidance must be relied upon.
Usually the conversation will turn towards the discussion of an older dog, since
it is difficult to know exactly how a dog will mature until about two or three
years of age. The advantage of pure-bred dogs and careful breeding is in
predictability, but only time will produce quality with certainty.
The reliable breeder will continue to show concern and
interest even after the sale of a puppy. He will make himself available to
answer your questions and give useful advice if possible. The “puppy producer's”
interest is over after the sale. Don't be offended by some of the questions that
the breeder might ask of you. He has an interest in the puppy that you are
seeking out and wants to assure himself that he is choosing a good home just as
you are trying to assure yourself that you are obtaining a quality puppy.
Physical Appearance
The Alaskan Malamute is a fine example of evolution of a breed
developed for a particular purpose; and, as such, must be capable of performing
the job for which the breed was originally used. Arctic explorers were in need
of an animal that would be capable of pulling heavy sledges loaded with supplies
for weeks on end without negative effects of the daily strain. They needed an
animal for a specific job, and the Alaskan Malamute capably fulfilled the
requirements.
These characteristics have been preserved by conscientious
breeding programs so that, theoretically, today's Malamutes are able to do the
same job as that of their forefathers.
The Alaskan Malamute's coat is an example of the breed's
specific development. It is a double coat, having a dense, woolly undercoat as
well as a thick, coarse guard coat. The undercoat provides adequate protection
from even the harshest weather conditions. Since it is thick and woolly (as
defined in the Standard of the Breed),
it is able to trap air warmed by the dog's body in much the same way as
“insulated underwear” keeps us warm on the chilliest of days. It is this dense
undercoat that supports the guard coat in such a way as to give it a full
standoffish appearance, which is a breed characteristic.
The guard coat actually protects the undercoat as a nylon park
and ski pants protects us over our woolen “long johns” in the winter. Snow and
wind are deflected off of the guard coat which has a coarse texture, as
described in the Standard. The hair is noticeably longer around the neck of the
Malamute in order to offer maximum protection for the dog's face. In
understanding the basic principles of the proper Malamute coat, it is easy to
see why the long, soft guard hair, coupled with a lack of dense undercoat does
not protect the dog as the aforementioned proper coat can.
The color of the coat is not nearly as important as the
texture and density. Malamutes have quite a color range, as is evident by the “Descriptive Color and Marking Code” that is approved by the AMCA. Though it is most common to see dogs of
the grey and white type or the black and white type, this does not mean that the
reds or whites are “rare” or “undesirable”. White is the only solid color
allowed in the breed. All other colors must have white undersides, and must be
accented by white markings on the face, chest. and legs.
The Standard of the Breed calls for a “desired freighting
size” of 25 inches at the shoulder and a weight of 85 pounds for males; for
females, 23 inches and 75 pounds. It is, however, not uncommon to see Malamutes
either larger or smaller than these desired freighting sizes.
In considering size, one must at all times remember why the
Malamute was originally bred. The dog had to exert constant physical effort, and
yet require a relatively small amount of food. A dog much larger than that
defined in the Standard would require more food just to stay alive than would be
allowed for the amount of weight to be pulled! A dog much smaller than that
called for in the Standard would not be capable of putting forth enough physical
effort to enable it to pull the loaded sledge for a long distance over many
days. Thus, the basis for the sizes in the Standard is simply efficiency.
The general appearance of the Alaskan Malamute should be that
of a powerfully built dog with a broad, deep chest, large bone and a broad head.
None of these characteristics should be carried to such an extreme that the
qualities are out of proportion with the rest of the dog. Adequate bone is
needed, but not to the extent that the bone is so large that it makes the dog
seem awkward and inefficient. The same is true of the head. Though it should be
large and somewhat blocky in appearance, it should not be so heavy as to give a
coarse or clumsy look. The head should have a wide skull with a thick muzzle
having well muscled jaws. The ears, however, should be small in proportion to
the rest of the head. Long extremities would be prone to frostbite. The almond
shaped eyes must be brown, never blue. All these features help to blend the head
in with the rest of the body, exhibiting a powerfully build dog without being
ponderous.
The Alaskan Malamute should give the impression of an
efficiently functioning animal, balanced and compact with the strength and
physical capabilities needed for endurance. It is truly extraordinary that one
is able to combine such physical aptitude with such a remarkably beautiful
appearance, but this has been accomplished in the Alaskan Malamute — an
extraordinary and remarkable breed.
Temperament
Malamutes are not from the same mold as the typical dog in
both some positive and some negative respects.
Malamutes are lively and alert to their surroundings. They are
intelligent but often independent by nature. Because of this, it is recommended
that the new owner enlist his dog in formal obedience classes to develop
discipline and proper social behavior. Training may be the difference between a
problem dog and an enjoyable companion.
While resembling wolves, they are not closely related.
Malamutes are generally friendly and desirous of human affection and attention.
Malamutes usually are too friendly to be good watch dogs, although their
appearance often is intimidating to strangers. Malamutes definitely are not
one-man or one-family oriented. They generally should get along as well as any
breed with children; but, of course, the children should not be allowed to abuse
the dog.
Alaskan Malamutes are good listeners and can carry on a
conversation by “talking” (not barking) in “woo-woos”. Malamutes will generally
howl upon hearing sirens, as it they were answering a long, lost cousin in the
distance. Usually malamutes are one of the quieter breeds, making noise only if
there is a good reason.
Because of their size and strength, Malamutes can be fairly
destructive by chewing and digging, particularly as puppies. Therefore, the
removal of temptation and a vigilant watch are effective precautions. While
Malamutes from puppyhood can be successfully raised with the existing family dog
or cat, they usually are not tolerant of strange animals with which they come
into contact. The responsible owner should have his dog under control in a
fenced yard or on a leash; thus, not creating a problem.
The Malamute has his own unique personality with virtues and
vices which make him such an interesting comparion for many people.
Training
From the beginning when Malamutes were used as sled dogs, an
independent nature was often important. The Malamute sometimes could follow the
trail or determine ice conditions better than its owner. The wise musher often
would put much faith in the experienced dogs to make decisions. Even today, the
Malamute has this independent temperament; some call it stubbornness or even a
lack of intelligence. Actually, the Malamute is fairly intelligent but needs to
be motivated. It needs to see a benefit for itself to behave as its owner would
like. Often praise from the master is not sufficient motivation. Fortunately,
the Malamute is not above taking food bribes which can produce amazing results.
Training must be consistent with the wrong behavior always
receiving correction and proper behavior always receiving praise and suitable
reward. Timing is extremely important. Correct only when the pup is caught in
the act; never correct for a past misdeed. Patience is a must with a puppy as it
learns how to be a good member of the household with the owner's guidance. Never
get angry but apply the proper discipline firmly and fairly.
Housebreaking is one of the first items to be taught. There
are two approaches. First is to paper train the pup, and as it becomes older and
can control itself (about four months), transfer the papers outside. While paper
training can be taught as young as six weeks of age, it is sometimes difficult
to get the pup to forget about the original location of the papers. Second is to
teach housebreaking directly outdoors by taking the pup out often; especially
after it eats, drinks, plays, wakes up after a nap, etc. A portable metal dog
crate, which can become the pup's den, would be an aid in housebreaking as dogs
usually do not like to soil their personal area where they rest and sleep. Thus,
if the pup is placed in its crate when left unattended, it will try to wait.
Leash training can be frustrating initially, but regular
practice will usually prevail. A short cord, but long enough for the pup to trip
over, can quicken this learning.
Obviously it is easier to train a small pup than a full grown
adult, so it is recommended that formal obedience training begin at an early
age. It has been proven that training a pup will produce maximum results if it
has not had a chance to develop bad habits. Many dog training clubs offer
kindergarten classes for pups two to four months old. Formal obedience training
classes are recommended for the basic exercises such as “heeling”, “come on
command”, “stays”, etc. This training also helps the dog to learn
self-discipline. The owner will understand his/her dog better, learning the
dog's abilities and limitations. Often obedience training develops a closer bond
between the owner and dog.
Environment, Feed and Care
Although the Alaskan Malamute was originally developed in the
Arctic, it adapts well to many climates. Likewise, they adapt well to indoor as
well as outdoor living arrangements.
When kept outdoors your Malamute will require shade from the
sun and shelter from the elements. There must always be fresh water available.
This is an active breed which requires daily exercise; i.e., a
large fenced area. If this is not available, your Malamute should be taken for
daily walks. Lack of exercise, play and attention leads to a bored Malamute who
may choose alternative means of entertainment; including chewing some favored
articles.
Your dog should be taught at two to four months of age how to
walk on a loose lead, to come when called and to stay. These simple commands
will make him a more welcome member of the family and may one day even save his
life.
Malamutes are generally “people dogs”; and, as such, they
enjoy the company and affection of a family. They are good with children, but
children must be taught how to handle and behave around dogs, especially
puppies. A Malamute grows quickly in the first year, and one might easily forget
that the dog's joints and bones are still soft and susceptible to permanent
damage if treated too roughly. Also, behavior patterns (begging, taking food,
biting — even in play) are established in the first year, and these can be
difficult to correct later. Children and puppies should be supervised together
and should be taught to respect one another.
The Malamute's dense, oily coat stays relatively clean under
normal conditions. After a romp in the mud, it is not uncommon to see a Malamute
cleaning his coat in a cat-like fashion. Even so, your Malamute will require
regular combing and brushing for the benefit of cleaning the coat, stimulating
the secretion of natural skin oils, removing dead hair, and examining for
parasites (ticks and fleas) or skin irritations.
A Malamute will “blow coat” (shed out his old hair in
preparation for new growth) twice a year. A steel-toothed comb or wire-bristled
brush will help to remove the dead hair.
Bathing is seldom required, and the regular grooming (at least
once a week) will keep the dog's coat clean and beautiful, as well as allowing
master and dog a quiet time together. Grooming procedures (including cleaning
the ears and clipping the nails) should be started with the very young puppy.
Gentle grooming for short periods of time will accustom your dog to the routine,
and he will look forward to and enjoy the grooming sessions.
Feeding a Malamute is easy, since the dog food companies have
truly become the experts on canine nutritional needs. A brand name dry food will
contain all the nutritional needs of the dog, possibly with the exception of
fats. Polyunsaturated fats (one tablespoon) will supplement this requirement. If
changing brands of dog food, do not suddenly substitute with the new food.
Instead, gradually add increasing amounts of the new food with the old until the
change is complete.
Table scraps are not a suitable diet and should not be used to
constitute a whole meal, though they may be added in small amounts,
approximately 10%, to the dog's dinner. The amount of food each dog requires is
determined by size, age, and level of activity. Young puppies are usually fed
three times a day, while an adult needs only one meal a day. Despite their size,
an adult Malamute has modest dietary needs. Some owners choose to feed their
Malamute two small meals to lessen the chance of bloat, a tragedy which can
affect all large, deep chested breeds. Provide plenty of fresh water at all
times, especially in warm weather, and remember to clean all feed and water
bowls daily.
These are two inherited conditions that affect the bone structure in the
Malamute.
Hip Dysplasia
affects all large breeds and although it is well known
and documented, there is still much controversy about its mode of inheritance
and the effect that the environment has on this crippling disease. The extent of
the malformation of the hip joint can vary from the clinically obvious lameness
and pain, to the subtle radiographic evidence which can only be detected by
trained radiologists. The central clearing house for reading the x-rays is the
Orthopedic Foundation for Animals,
Inc. Dogs x-rayed at two years of age or older will be issued a serialized
OFA certificate if there is no evidence of hip dysplasia.
Although most breeders will at least guarantee replacement should your dog be
dysplastic, it is important for you to be aware of this genetic problem prior to
purchasing a puppy. It is a difficult decision to return a dog for replacement
after having become a part of the family for a year or so. Take the time to
discuss this with your veterinarian, and obtain booklets
on the subject. The AMCA has an excellent one. Do this before you make your
final selection.
Chondrodysplasia
or
CHD is commonly referred to as “dwarfism”. It is inherited in a simple recessive
manner; and therefore, carriers and potential carriers can be identified. The
AMCA has set up a huge file of statistically potential and non-potential CHD
carriers. The malformation is usually quite evident at a young age, and affects
the proper growth of the long bones of the front legs. Under the AMCA program,
dogs that have a certain percentage probability of being a carrier, due to their
ancestry, are recommended for “test mating”. This is a breeding with another
individual who is known to carry the genes the produce the deformity. Under
carefully monitored conditions, these testing matings are monitored and if all
conditions are favorable, the dog in question is then “Certified Test-Bred
Clear”. These conditions are not easy for the average prospective owner to meet;
so, therefore it is much better to obtain your new Malamute from “CLEARED”
parents. More detailed information can be obtained by clicking on the link
above.
The following code has been approved by the Alaskan Malamute Club of America,
Inc., and its purpose is to:
-
Eliminate misunderstandings and incorrect information on pedigrees,
registrations, etc.
-
Supply the information needed for prospective or new owners and breeders
to describe the dog correctly.
-
Provide a universally accepted set of color and marking definitions that
can be utilized by the Breeders Information Service.
-
Facilitate future studies and research in color genetics.
Color Description
-
Black and White — Black guard hair with black or dark
grey undercoat.
-
Alaskan Seal and White — Black or black tipped guard
hairs with white or cream undercoat. Dog appears black at a distance but is
not a true black because of the light undercoat.
-
Sable and White — Black or gray guard hairs with a
reddish undercoat and red trimmings. Both black and red factors evident.
-
Gray and White — Gray guard hairs with light gray, cream,
or white undercoat. Dog definitely appears gray even though there may be some
black hairs on the topline. No red factor evident.
-
Silver and White — Light gray guard hairs with white
undercoat.
-
Red and White — A definite shade of red, either light or
dark; with light points (lip line and nose), and eye color. No black factor
evident.
-
All White
— Both guard hairs and undercoat are white.
Often evidence of a mask in cream color. Only solid color allowed.
-
Trimmings — Shadings of gold, cream, buff, brown or
reddish hues often found on legs, ears, tail and face between white areas of
the underbody and the dark color above.
Face Markings
-
Cap — A cap of color covers the top of the head and ears
usually coming to a point in the center of the forehead.
-
Goggles —
Dark areas under the eyes and extending
sideways to the cap.
-
Bar — A dark area extending from the center point of the
cap down the nose.
-
Eye Shadow — Dark markings under the eyes but not
extending out to the cap.
-
Star — A small white spot in the center of the forehead.
-
Blaze
— A white mark extending from the center point of
the cap back up the forehead. Width and length can vary.
-
Closed Face — Dark coloring covering the face with no
distinct markings on the face.
-
Open Face — A cap covering the top of the head and no
other markings on the face.
-
Full Mask — The combination of cap, goggles and bar.
-
Mask —
The combination of cap and goggles.
Chest Markings
Neck Area
Mismarkings
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